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VAT Intracomm. - SIRET - APE - RIB - General Conditions of Sale
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Costumes
The garment possesses to the Middle Ages a social
significance :
according to the rank and the functions occupied, one won't dress of
the same way.
So most men adopted in the XVe century the port of a garment of over
very short, like the donor of the decor of the Saint-Sebastian chapel
;
but some, by decency, continue to wear the dresses and long coats: the
priests, the notables, the doctes.
Among these, physicians and jurists share the
privilege to wear the same costume red fur lined half note.
On the other hand, the aumônière that the doctor represented
here door to the belt doesn't constitute a specific accessory :
numerous are the men to hang to their belt a purse or a satchel.
We propose you a presentation of our costumes to. All are not presented
again again here. If you wish one of them, communicate us the references
that you interressent by means of a promenade or the form. Our costumes
only exist in only one copy except contrary specification in the description.
On the page of the sales, you will find a presentation
of costumes to the sale. These costumes are created therefore in a copy
(except contrary specifications) the first claimant will be the first
served. However on order we can achieve the costume of your rèves....
If you summers interréssés to buy one of them, you must
phone us and yourselves numir of your banking card.
Military costume under Charles IX
(According to an article appeared in 1854)
We saw to begin, under Henri II, the fashion of the weapons engraved
and golden. Philippe Strozzi, general colonel of the French strips,
applied to return them townships in his/her/its troops. He/it made come
from Milan to Paris a very sensible trader who was called Negrotti.
This Negrotti opened department stores supplied in all time of that
that manufactured itself of better in his/her/its country makes corselets
of it and of morions. By there, he/it arrived that the merchandise not
having anymore to pass, as before, by the hands of a crowd of mediators
that wanted all there to benefit, the prices cut down by far.
However they were again above the faculties of most soldiers. A morion
was worth until 14 ecus. M. Strozzi got pending by our gunsmiths and
to prick them of honor so that they seized an industry of which their
only shyness assured the monopoly to the strangers. He/it started with
training a gilder who surpassed the Milanese in the application of gold
ground on the engraving; so that while buying the white pieces to Negrotti,
and while gilding them in Paris, a morion came back only to 8 or 9 ecus.
Finally he/it left French shops of the pieces as well arched, hollowed
and engraved that everything that one brought from Italy.
Piquier, sign, drum, according to the compilation of Perrissin,
It put an end to the trade of the Negrotti Lord; but he/it had already
gotten used rich to more of 50 000 ecus.
It is not only of defensive weapons that Negrotti
made trade; he/it also held the arquebus and fourniments, other part
where our workers cannot sustain the competition for quite a while with
the Italian. The fourniment was a pear to provided powder, as it was
later the pears to powder of the hunters, of a case in metal or capsule
intended to measure the load. The soldier carried it suspended to a
chain or to a harness; it resulted at a time from him place of giberne
and cartridges. The city of Blangy, close to had, was in possession
of the industry of the fourniments; but one blamed to the capsules of
this factory for not being all of an equal measure, and to the carvings
of which one decorated there the pears to have neither taste nor relief.
As for the French arquebus, they got used in Metz and in Abbeville,
with as little success that the fourniments in Blangy. The cannons,
unequally emptied, burst all the time; the crosiers, badly arched, returned
the difficult épaulement and the impossible shooting exactness.
The arquebus of Milanese factory were exempt of these shortcomings.
Strozzi only blamed them for a too short range, because he wanted that
the arquebusier killed a man to four hundred steps.
While going to Malta in 1562, he/it passed intentionally
by Milan to get along with a named Gaspard that was the most clever
worker of the world to forge the cannons of fire arms, and to make execute
under his/her eyes the new caliber of which he/it had the idea. "And
sudden, tell Brantôme, that accompanied Strozzi, the fellow main
Gaspard started making big quantity of these arquebus so that, so much
him in fesait, as much he sold some to the other French who came after
us, and that, to the envi of us other, took some, because we had gone
the first. And since continued to forge the cannons of this big caliber,
but with it if drilled well, filed so well and emptied especially so
well, that there was not anything to say; and were very sure, because
it was not necessary to speak about bursting them. And with it, we made
the beautiful fourniments and the big load make to the équipollent.
Here is of where, first, had the use of these big cannons of caliber,
that, when one pulled them, you had said that it was mousquetade. "
The muskets owe to M. again of Strozzi of have been brought to a reasonable
caliber that, without overloading the soldier, gave him the means to
touch nearly a goal of the double farther than with the arquebus. We
already found this weapon in use in the strips of François Ier;
but she/it had been abandoned since because of his/her/its heaviness.
The duke of Albe put it back in honor while giving it to elite companies
for whose soldiers were paid enough well to have each a valet that carried
their musket in the walks.
Charles IX having seen this troop at the time
of the famous interview of Bayonne, in 1565, the desire had just had
him a similar of it. He/it ordered some muskets in the factory of Metz,
and loaded Strozzi to arm an escade of his/her/its care of it. This
one first of all declared that he/it would not suffer that our infantrymen
had some valets, as well as the Spaniards; and as, of another side,
he/it recognized that it was to abuse the strength of the men that to
make walk them with these muskets of Metz, he/it addressed the gunsmiths
of Milan again to decrease the length of the weapon and to reduce the
thickness of the cannon without hurting to his/her/its range.
With it, he/it allowed the use of forks to adjust; and there were some
musketeers not only in the king's care, but again in most French strips.
It is of the use of the muskets that came the idea of the sling loads.
Because of the big quantity of powder that it was necessary to burn
for every stroke,
Arquebusiers and hallebardier of the care of the sign,
according to the compilation of Perrissin
one imagined to attach to the soldier's harness several capsules all
full worthy of the musket, regardless of what he/it had in his/its hanged
fourniment at the end of the same harness.
Henri Estienne learns us that the term morion, that was Italian, generally
substituted itself, under Charles IX, to the one of cabasset. In the
same time, the morion to lowered visor, that one called salad once,
was not known anymore than under the name of bourguignotte. Salad was
reserved to designate the armet provided with bavière and view,
that constituted the helmet of the state police exclusively. The morion
or the bourguignotte acted as hairdressing to the light cavalry and
to the infantrymen. Among these, there was only the hallebardiers that
kept the hat.
The corselets, abandoned quite by people of shooting,
became the uniform clean to the piquiers and the sign of recognition
of the officers of all rank. The Huguenot, not having any Switzerland
in their armies, used German infantrymen in place, or lansquenets, dressed
more or less as those of Marignan were, except that their high of chausses,
very ample and coupes to the German, nearly descended to the low of
the legs, as pants of the Mamelukses. At the head of their strips a
rank of soldiers worked armed of these awful two-handed swords, that
make the astonishment of those that sees some today in the restrooms
of curiosities.
The clothing of the cavalry doesn't undergo an important reform that
the total deletion of the harness of legs that was replaced by long
boots, even in the state police; so that all bodies were shoed from
then on uniformly. The corselet of the chevau-light was covered, since
the time of François II, by a floating blouse a few longer than
the bust. People of weapons had some of similar with lost sleeves that
fell behind the arm: it is what one called the dresses of the cavalry.
The arquebusiers on horseback, that began then to be called carabins,
didn't have this clothing that would have embarrassed them for the man.uvre
of their weapon. Finally the reîtres, while keeping the gun to
which they owed their reputation, adopted the defensive weapons that
first missed to them, that is the bourguignotte and the corselet.
The sumptuary edict of 1573 tried to put a brake to the luxury of the
harnessings that made the despair of the captains. One reads of it a
thus conceived article: People of war won't carry on the harness and
caparisons of the horses, sheet nor canvas of gold or drawn money, nor
cloth (was not for once, in considerable act, as in a battle or day
assigned); but will really carry itself embroideries or taillures of
gold or money, or of silk in border of four fingers, and enrichment
of cross. "